Spray paint a car useful for repairing minor cosmetic paint damage option.

The main advantages offered by this system are that we do not need sophisticated and expensive tools (spray guns, compressor …), and no experience is required in automotive refinishing. Just takes a bit of desire, be a little crafty and follow one by one the steps described in this guide …

Car paint spray is essentially like spray painting, although with some nuances. In fact, many professional auto body shops use some products in a spray format.

  • The base layer or color spray is identical to the base layer for applying spray. In both cases, it is made according to a formula which corresponds to a color code, provided by the vehicle manufacturer, through a tinting system. The only difference is that, in aerosol form, color is packaged in a spray load refillable.
  • The primer-surfacer and spray lacquer if they are different from their counterparts for spray application. The fundamental difference is that the products are typically sprayed 1K (single-component), while those that are usually sprayed 2K (2-component). The first dry by evaporation and the latter by the addition of a catalyst (that are two components).
  • The mono-component lacquer spray is thinner than 2K finish. That’s why you need as many hands to reach a right level of brightness. However, once dried can be polished to acquire exceptional brightness.

  • In short, find your best automotive spray gun in here, best automotive paint gun is the perfect alternative when it comes to DIY car and when not have professional tools or previous experience. . Also, if the particular characteristics of these products are known and used correctly can get professional results …


STEP 1 cleaning and degreasing

The first step is to clean and thoroughly degrease the surface to be painted.

Using a spray, sprinkle degreasing solvent on the surface and rub with a microfiber cloth to completely remove any dirt … If you do not have degreasing solvent soap and water can be used, but we must bear in mind that some substances such as tar, they are quite difficult to remove, so we’ll have to insist more rubbing with the cloth.

This initial cleaning fulfills two functions: on the one hand allows us to see clearly all defects or damage that is the part that will repair and on the other facilitates sanding operations by eliminating substances that can contaminate the abrasive subtracting effectiveness.


The second step is to protect the adjacent repair area by placing masking tape on the adjacent parts.

The aim is to safeguard not damaged during sanding operations. They have to protect other painted parts, headlights, and pilots, moldings, and moons.

If we are to be repeatedly sanded in a very close area to another piece, maybe the masking tape is not enough. In this case, we can choose, much tougher, or duct tape by placing a piece of cardboard or similar … the idea is to sand without fear of causing any harm if we miss the sand, which is entirely possible when we have to sand putty or filler.


The third phase is damaged paint stripping.

Pickling is sanded with a P150 grit abrasive affected area of color to find healthy players.

Pickling serves to remove scratches and chipped and would enhance the adhesion of the putty filler apply later to fill imperfections and dents.

Will sandpaper with taco using a sawing motion on the surface to be stripped, but without excessive pressure. Ensure at all times that the transition between the different layers that we are reaching smooth and staggered.


The fourth step is to degrease the surface etched.

Sprinkle again with degreasing solvent spray and rub with the microfiber cloth.

By decreasing, we remove all dust that was generated during pickling Paint Damage.

We pay particular attention to dust that is inserted into the folds and hollows.

It is to avoid using water for this operation because it is quite likely that plate has been reached during pickling, and could start an oxidation process if it gets wet.

STEP 5 caulking

The fifth step is to caulk the affected area.

The caulking is applied gap filler for leveling small dents or deformations of the plate and other paint defects.

The gap filler is a product of two components, i.e., need to add a hardener to take place drying. This hardener is added in a proportion of 2/3% of the amount of putty and stirs well until the mixture is a uniform color.

When the mixture is completed, the putty spreads the affected area aid of spatulas.

STEP 6 Sanding

Once the putty dry, after about 20 minutes, we proceed to sand the putty.

Sanding the putty is sanded with P240 grit abrasive * to eliminate the surplus and get an level surface.

We’ll use a taco, using a sawing motion on the patch putty without straining. For good results, it is very useful to start sanding the edges of the patch putty inside out so that this remains fused with the old paint. Once this is achieved, there is only sand inside the patch to level.


The seventh step is to refine the putty.

The tune is to reduce P240 sanding with finer grain abrasive; P320

The brand sanding P320 is much easier to cover with the primer-surfacer that will be applied later.

To tune correctly using putty will sandpaper with taco reciprocated without exerting too much pressure.

Will sandpaper the entire surface sanded with P240, and we extend a little longer to be sure to have conveniently reduced all previous mark of sanding.


After tuning the putty will sandpaper the outline of the piece.

Contour sanding part consists of sand with fine sanding screen around the entire sanded with the P320 area above. This is done so that the mark of standing, in the area where the patch will end primer-surfacer, a little thinner. Thus, we will ensure a smooth transition between the repaired area and paint in good condition.

We apply a sawing motion with the pad, and pay particular attention to those hard to reach places.


Once all the steps of sanding the putty, degrease the surface again.

Sprinkle with degreasing solvent spray and rub with the microfiber cloth.

By decreasing, we remove any soil that is generated during sanding.

We pay particular attention to dust that is inserted into the folds and hollows.

It is to avoid using water for this operation since the mastic is quite porous and can absorb much moisture that may cause some problems later.


The tenth step is to hide the adjacent repair area.

This masking is done to anchor (apply primer-rigging) avoiding stain spray rig with unwanted places.

Use paper or plastic film and adhesive masking tape.

We seek to leave enough working space to avoid having to come up with the primer-surfacer to the video. So avoid leaving an unusual step with the primer would cost a lot of work to remove. What we can do is use folds or together with other pieces of tape, because in this case, the step is not a problem.

Step 11 ANCHOR

The next step is the anchor.

The anchor is to apply primer-surfacer over the repaired area. The primer-surfacer is committed to protecting and seal repair and leveling small defects putty, and old paint stripped (sanding marks, pores …)

Apply 3/4 coats of primer-surfacer spray, evaporation leaving a gap between them of about 5 minutes. We seek to apply the product wet enough to leave a smooth surface as possible. This will facilitate the subsequent sanding. Depending on the product and the number of hands, let dry rigging ½ h to 2 h.


Once dry, the rigging, the next step is sanding.

The sanding rig consists of sanding the surface thereof with an abrasive grain P800 water.

By standing to rig leveled any slight defect repair, and provide a perfectly smooth and homogeneous for paint finishing substrate.

We will sandpaper with a taco, using a sawing motion without exerting too much pressure. We must maintain at all times the wet surface; water facilitates the removal of abrasive and removal of sanding residue.

STEP 13 Matting

After sending the rig, we turn to qualified.

The shading is to sand the rest of the piece with an abrasive pad gray fine grain. This can be done dry or with water, but with water, the result is better and homogeneous.

This beautiful standing ensures the adhesion of paint finish to open the pores of the layer of old paint, and lacquer application allows only (no color), which is very useful for blending color and avoid differences in shading.


After nuanced, we can terminate all sanding operations. It is time to clean the masked before painting.

Sprinkle with degreasing solvent spray and rub with the microfiber cloth.

In this step, we have to remove the tape from the adjacent area and remove any sanding residue. Also, clean up the surrounding parts and interior and accommodation of these.

For this operation, water can be used as long as there is no bare metal achieved. Never use soap.

STEP 15 hidden TO PAINT

The next step is the masked paint.

It is to cover with plastic film or paper and masking tape adhesive those parts of the vehicle that are not to stain with paint.

We seek to be accurate in profiling tape adjacent elements, in order not only that no smudging, but not we mount the tape on the piece we are going to paint. Nor should we forget conveniently seal the interior doors and bonnets so that no paint on them, or leave them dirt.


The tenth to the sixth step is cleaning before painting.

It consists of entirely degrease the surface to be painted and remove any dust or other debris.

Sprinkle with degreasing solvent spray and rub with the microfiber cloth. Then we pass a particular tack cloth.

At this stage, we have to be especially careful decreasing as any oily residue can cause rejections in the paint finishing shaped craters. The dust on the surface also causes small imperfections that detract from the finish.


The next step is to apply the base coat or color.

It consists of using color paint on the repaired vehicle. The color should be accurate, and is obtained through a color code provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

3/4 colored hands apply the patch until it is completely covered. We’ll leave about 5 minutes between coats.

Try to blur the color to avoid color differences with the rest of the car.


The last step is the application of lacquer or varnish.

It is to apply 2/4 coats of varnish on the entire piece once completely dry base color, leaving about 5/10 minutes flash between them.

The varnish provides protection and luster to the base color.

We have to apply hands wet enough to obtain a smooth and glossy finish.

Once dry the varnish (about 2 hours), we will remove the masking. If you have been defective, it can be sanded with fine sandpaper P2000 and polish.

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